Japan in Thirty Days

Home + a few days

19 Nov 2010 Leave a Comment

by gbesses in Gerald/ジェラルド

OK. Petaluma is somewhat less exciting than Shizuoka and Hamamatsu. But, it is home. The bed is familiar; the bath is familiar; the kitchen is familiar, though I’ve done no cooking, yet. Best of all, I’ve got Jerrie - no offense to the best Team I can imagine, but they are no substitute for Jerrie, not even close. And, I love them dearly.
So, thank you to Tom Ogaki, Matsuhashi san, Yamaoka san, and Yoshi Miyazawa san - my hosts. You guys made this trip beyond anything I could have imagined possible. You made me, a guest who knew nothing of your culture and your family, feel as if I was a part of that family - loved and tolerated despite my weaknesses. The warmth you showed and the nourishment you provided - emotional and practical - made this experience wonderful for me.
Major thanks to Tom Ikedo, District GSE chair and organizer of this trip, shepherd of the Team, confidant and interpreter of what we saw and did. You donated your time to me, freely and graciously - I can not thank you enough for all you did - the wonderful restaurants that I would never find on my own, like the little one run by your friend in Hamamatsu - think of me when you open c3p0 - and sites like the Kite Museum.
Thanks to the Rotary clubs whose members gave us generously of their time and energy, guiding us to intensely rewarding sites and activities that we never would have experienced without Rotarian help.
There were many many people who made the trip so much better and I can not name them all. Honda san helped keep us all together on the airport trip from Hamamatsu to Narita, freely guiding as needed on that sunny walk through Tokyo. Takahara san contributing his time and energy to me with Yamaoka san and guiding Bri back to safety when the Team was worried about her (unnecessarily as it turned out but we couldn’t know). Sone san who is the out-going Japan GSE Team Leader for his help meeting his Team - I expect to really enjoy his visit to District 5130. DG Nakayama san and his bunnies and warm welcome for greeting us so thoroughly on the first day and treating us so well at his District conference - hundreds of Rotarians singing around the room, but I got him as my partner. Our factory and tour guides, our tea masters, our kimono dressers, the monks who showed us their temples and helped with meditation exercise - one of whom slapped me (at my request admittedly) - all were very gracious. Thanks to the doctors who could guide me around the hospitals, in English, so the complex stuff was reasonably explained, and to the English teachers who served as our interpreters at so many times.
Thanks to the District Governors who chose me for Team Leader and the GSE chairs who cooperated in that choice. They trusted me, a major leap of faith - I can only hope that I satisfied their expectations.
So, the experience was beyond my dreams. The food of Japan was a daily delight. The cultural experiences were not possible outside of Rotary. The Team was the best I could imagine, ever. Yet, I am glad to be home but would do it again in a heartbeat.
Thank you all.

GSE Day 30

15 Nov 2010 2 Comments

by gbesses in Gerald/ジェラルド

GSE Day 30
We met about 8:30. Tom and Honda san were waiting

and we were bused to the Shinkensan, which left at 9:10. Apparently a couple of folks got the wrong time and thought we left at 10:10; I was sorry to miss Yoshi and DG Nakayama san. We arrived an hour and a half later at Shinagawa station and walked to the Shinagawa Prince Hotel, about two blocks, but across the street- lots of walking in Tokyo. Of course, our rooms weren’t ready, so we checked the luggage and went for lunch. Tom took us [several subway stops and a change of trains later to Asakusa] for manja, which they call pancakes. Hot griddle built into the table on which a mixture of stuff that includes an egg was pored. Artful, different and good, as usual. Then, we went to a shopping area where there were what looked to me like hundreds of small shops behind a large gate and into a warren of streets without cars. I found the tea whisk that I wanted, compromising by getting the one made in China which was a quarter the price of the Japanese made one. After about an hour of wandering we met again and went to Akihabara, an electronics center, with many huge and tons of small shops selling electronic gear. I think I found the camera that Jerrie doesn’t know she wants - stylish, sleek, with a touch screen for controls instead of those interminable menus so it is super easy to use. Unfortunately, during this shopping time, it started to rain, not heavily but it was not pleasant either. I got slightly lost as I thought we were to meet up on a specific corner, but I found everyone a half block away and under cover. There were a number of young women dressed childishly and giving out notices, which I assume were for their clubs. I chose not to photograph them, but they were friendly.
We went to dinner nearby at a Korean barbecue, which means that there was a barbecue in the center of the table; we were brought plates of food and cooked it for ourselves. Superb mushrooms and excellent beef. Tom ordered beef stomach and beef sushi as well and it was all very good, except the spiced vegetables, which were too spicy for me. Then back to check into our hotel rooms, all of which have superb views from the 35th floor. Then we went to the Tokyo Tower Observation deck at 150 meters up - the views were even better and were 360 degrees, with little computer screens that named some of the places we were looking at and showed what was to be seen for a twenty four hour cycle. Then off to Roppongi, where we had drinks and some food in the Hard Rock Cafe, and home about 11:30. A good day; we meet at 11 to check out, go for lunch and catch a private bus to the airport for our 5:45 flight to Seattle. We get there about 9 AM; then the SF flight leaves at 11:54 and arrives at SF at 2 PM. No posting tomorrow. My pedometer says 3073 steps, but that must be too low.

GSE Day 29

15 Nov 2010 Leave a Comment

by gbesses in Gerald/ジェラルド

GSE Day 29
Just had to take an elevator to meet the Team. Rotarians everywhere and I know many of them - Matsuhashi san, Yamaoka san, and Yoshi were all there at one time or another. Tom gathered us up and told the Team that they could listen to the speeches or just have free time. I had a front row seat with a large red-ribbon flower-like badge. seated next to me was a delightful woman [Shigemi Katsuhiko] representing the District from Tokyo who quietly translated much that was said.

[Sone san sat in back of me and filled in at some spots.] She had a card case that was similar to the small briefcase case that I carry, except hers had a mirror inside where her meishi were. Neither of us had ever seen another one of these. They carefully stuck to their pre-printed schedule and at 11:50, we were dismissed for lunch. The Team met again over a bento lunch on the 12th floor in the VIP lunch area. The outgoing Team with Sone san was introduced to us and I had a brief talk with each of the Team members. Their English will need improvement, except for Sone san and the one English translator. Like my Team, they are young and enthusiastic, but their travel experience is somewhat limited. They have six months for training.
We went onstage for introductions just after 2, the crowd laughed when I told them that Petaluma Valley RC is half women and my wife is president elect. Tom translated. Each of the Team gave their name and occupation and thanks. Then free until the post-conference party. The women changed into dressy cocktail dresses, which they had not had a chance to wear for the trip. They looked great. The party was hosted by about 50 young women, 30 in brief bunny outfits with ears and a fluff tail and high net stockings. I was told that the bunnies were the DGs idea to help enliven the party. There was some stage entertainment with Geisha dancers and some music. There was an incredibly noisy pre-party with a jazz singer. Later, I learned that many of the older men had only come to the post-conference party because of the women in skimpy outfits
Then Tom took Craig and me to a party; the gals didn’t want to go. Mostly men, some of whom I knew including two out-going Team guys, but a couple women, good food and drink, unintelligible talk. All fun. Finally Craig and I walked home, chatted for a bit and went to bed.
5673 steps, and we didn’t really go anywhere. I must pack in the morning and meet the Team in the lobby at 8:30 to catch the 9:10 Shinkansen.

GSE Day 27

12 Nov 2010 2 Comments

by gbesses in Gerald/ジェラルド

GSE Day 27
Christmas has arrived. Overnight, there is an xmas tree in the hotel lobby; the musak is playing xmas songs and the shops have

been decorated and the TV ads are for Xmas stuff. Apparently everyone, somewhere, agreed that Xmas decorations go up on November 11. Yoshi took me to his office first so that I could see where he works. And, I met the office director.
We went to the music museum - Hamamatsu is the home of Yamaha, Susuki and others. The Rotary District pin has a piano shape. Very interesting about the history of the piano and the collection of Japanese instruments and European instruments. They even have a room for playing some instruments. Lunch was nearby in a “beer restaurant” owned by the brother of the current district governor. Very pleasant meal and Craig and I shared a bottle of sake that is locally brewed - very smooth. This restaurant has its own micro beer brewery and I like the beer, which is darker than what I have had up to now.
Then to the Inagi (eel) Pie factory where we were given some samples of Inagi cookies and got a tour (in Japanese) of the production facility, through windows from outside, but the sight was interesting and the cookies are very good. Then shopping at a large mall; I bought a pair of black cotton turtle neck shirts, almost too cheap at $12.50 each. I guess I’ll see how they wear.
7422 steps. We check into the Grand Hotel in the morning.

GSE Day 26

11 Nov 2010 2 Comments

by gbesses in Gerald/ジェラルド

GSE Day 26
Continued.
This morning with visited with the Mayor of Hamamatsu, nice guy.

I gave him an embroidered towel and Windy gave him a wine stopper. Lots of pictures.
Then off to the Tukushi dance school, which is across the drive from the Grand Hotel. My driver, today, is Joe Matthew, a San Jose native and Rotarian, who runs a language school in Hamamatsu and is married to a Japanese woman. Very helpful to have a fully fluent English speaker, but, oddly, there are still things he doesn’t know after residing here for twenty years. Still wealth of information. The dance school started with a nine year old boy who did a dance that we are told is the first dance that new students learn all the way through - every step, hand and head motion is choreographed and meaningful - the kid was delightful. Then the sensei and his wife did a number for older, teenagers. He apologized that she was too old for the part at thirty, but she looked the part and is beautiful. Then a still more mature woman came on; it was difficult to believe that she was eighty years old. The sensei changed kimono to a very formal variety and did some kabuki stuff, which I truly don’t understand, but was no less interesting for that. Then we were ALL dressed in kimono. I had three belts on. The women had formal though more virginal costumes, substantially different from the ones worn by the older women who had danced for us. Lots of photos, of course.
Then off for lunch. It was fun to chose our own lunch, though I still took too much, enjoying it all, including the black sesame custard, the salmon, and some things that looked and tasted wonderful but I can’t identify. Oddly, there were no napkins - go figure.
Then to the calligraphy sensei, Dosyu Kanayama. The room in which he greeted us is almost an art gallery as he has a wonderful collection of ceramics, plus some of his own work on the wall. He explained a large piece, though our interpreter, Joe, with a sensibility that fits every artist I have ever met. He said that he was more interested in stirring a reaction in the observer than telling the observer what to observe. He wants the observer to feel something from what he creates and recognizes that that feeling may be different from what he feels as he does his art. Anyway, I was impressed just walking into his place. Then, we did calligraphy, after he described some of shat he does while drawing. His control of the brush and ink is amazing. And, he is able to teach, even without the language. I practiced and he showed me and I practiced some more and he showed me some more and I was able to do the character for “samurai” well enough so Yoshi recognized it without prompting when I showed it to him.
We finished early. The Team had expressed an interest in going to the beach, so we did. Joe says that the area we visited is not visited by natives; they have specific places they go to and this wasn’t one of them; he doesn’t know why. The wind was blowing like stink and I got cold, but the Team walked to the end of a jetty - youth! And, back to the hotel.
Our welcoming party, with hosts. On the 12th floor with a beautiful view. We were each seated with our hosts at a different table - about eight tables and eight people per table. We did our last presentation and I think it was our best, even though Windy and I had no translator. Good time - the meal was excellent, the wine, beer and sake were copious. Lots of pictures. Then, the best - Yoshi brought out his masks and scarves, two masks as gifts for each of us, and we danced into the room and had lots more pictures to a crowd of cheering, as these masks are folk characters that the Japanese all know - fun.
Now to bed. I’m a bit drunk, so even Craig noticed this evening. 3753 steps. The music museum - this is the home of Yamaha after all. and a pie factory tomorrow.

GSE Day 25

10 Nov 2010 Leave a Comment

by gbesses in Gerald/ジェラルド

GSE Day 25
I find these days difficult to believe as they keep exciting me. Today was “individual study, but Windy’s morning changed and she went with me to Totomi Hospital, an old age place with day care, dementia care and some really cute folks, one of whom insisted on a separate and very genial introduction. I did not understand why we changed into slippers on entering the hospital and some people who work there walked in in their own shoes, but, that’s the way it is. We were driven by Ihara san, who basically speaks no English, but Toshi san, who is a Rotary club employee and has lived in California for three years helped out and speaks just fine. After the hospital visit, we went for lunch to a lovely place on the Tehryu river. We all got the bento inagi lunch.

Then Windy took off with Miki driving for her afternoon and I was taken to the University. We met the hospital Director, Masahiro Takigawa, a Yale trained dermatologist - although he arrived about three years after I left. His English is superb and he generously gave me his time and we toured the hospital. They have about 600 beds, two MRI machines and they are building a cyclotron for therapy and research. There are nearly 200 doctors in training. Impressive place.
Then Ihara san took me to a golf shop, where I missed my one swing and didn’t feel up to stretching out to do a better job. The “woods” are all LARGE aluminum structures, larger than my fist with shafts that are very flexible. I guess I just haven’t seen modern clubs - these big clubs are listed at over $900 each. Then Ihara san took me to visit Takanaka’s clinic. A private office with his own CT and some very sophisticated equipement that he uses for his 50-60 patients every day. He is a cardiologist and the CT does coronary angiograms in color and three D - phenomenal stuff.
Then to the hotel and home for dinner. 5627 steps, today.

GSE Day 24

09 Nov 2010 2 Comments

by gbesses in Gerald/ジェラルド

GSE Day 24
Another amazing day. Breakfast was Inagi, a small salad and fruit - Reiko was puzzled that I did not want rice and miso. We gathered, as usual, except Yoshi san has to be at work so I was there early. Then off to the Sanritsu commercial bakery factory. They gave us slippers to wear after leaving our shoes at the entrance. They into a conference room for an introduction and we were given white paper dresses, bonnets and masks,

along with new shoes to replace the slippers we had just been given and the guys got a velcro band to keep our slacks from flapping. Then through the vacuum brushes to get any extra lint off our paper outfits and into the blower - nozzles of air, blowing hard all around. Out a sliding door. Into the production area. Batter everywhere, with large mixers, then rollers, stampers, eventually ovens, coolers, boxers. Funny - after extensive automation of nearly everything, with people inspecting all along, the boxers are all human. Several production lines producing all kinds of commercial wrapped pastry from crackers to Chocobots to Inagi (eel flavored) cookies. Then back to the conference room where we removed our protective clothes and were given samples of everything. The factory owner is a Rotarian; the Rotarian generosity never ceases.
Then Lunch with the Hamamatsu RC. We actually got to do a full presentation. Flag exchanges, etc. Good lunch of fish and vegies, of course. Then off to the Air Park, where there was a fun film in an overhead screen theater then plenty of planes, etc to look at, with all of the explanations in Japanese, but fun to see all of this older military equipment. I’m always impressed with how small fighter jets are. Our drivers were Tom Ikedo, who is a great sheppard for us sheep, and Nakamura san. His family has been brewing sake since 1871. We were invited for a tasting of three different sake types. Quite distinctively different, but the cloudy one was slightly effervescent. He sent us home with the remainder of the bottles that he and his wife had opened for us. Then back to the hotel.
Yoshi san was waiting. He and I were joined by a woman who works for a Rotarian - I didn’t learn who - whose family name is Sato - she said that her given name was too difficult for me so I should call her Sato - another Rotarian, Fujiwara san, who owns seven nursing homes. We drove home to pick up Reiko and went about 12 kilometers to a Japanese Tea House. We were the first customers, and as far as I could tell, the only customers for the night. Tatami room with a low table, but real chairs so my knees were no problem. Three waitresses in Kimono. But, we were five and there were eight places at the table? I learned why, when we were joined by the three Koto players - Nori, whom Yoshi has known for over 20 years, who he describes as a master Koto player and two younger woman, who teach first grade and kindergarden in real life, but helped with the three kotos - one of which was a 17 string bass. The other two were standard 13 string instruments.
The meal was Kaiseki - many courses of exquisite food. The first dish was a chestnut and fish affair with spiky noodles (crackers?) - beautiful, difficult to eat, but very good. Then Sashimi, a cooked fish dish, matsutake mushroom soup, some special vegies, more fish,then a matsutake custard, followed by an ikura and Inagi over types of seaweed that I haven’t seen or tasted before - one was white, then a sesame miso over rice and finally a dessert of grapefruit jelly (they enjoyed the play on my name). Of course, sake and beer. Then the women played - outstanding - the bass instrument really added color to the other two. Nori sensei played lead. Matsutake mushrooms grow around Willits, but are usually shipped to Japan because they are priced so high in Japan but not the US where their strong flavor seems to turn Americans off - I liked it.
Then Yoshi san pulled out some comedy masks and scarfs, which he has five sets of and is making a gift to the team of. The younger women had fun dressing me and dancing around in the masks. They use them on stage or as wall decorations. Off to bed. We have individual “study” tomorrow and I get a whole day at the University hospital. 5250 steps, today.

GSE Day 23

08 Nov 2010 Leave a Comment

by gbesses in Gerald/ジェラルド

GSE Day 23
Interesting day. We checked out of the hotel and went to a Zen Buddhist temple, where we meditated for 15 minutes, rested for 5 and repeated a 15 minute meditation. This was done with socks off, but only the Team commented on my toe nails. During that time, the monk walked up and back. If we wished to be awakened, we put our hands together and he came over to slap our backs with a stick. I tried it, and the stick smarted, but I retained a body image of the slap and the 15 minutes flew by. I even stayed in a half lotus position for the entier time. The monk did a full lotus, when he wasn’t marching. The temple had burned about 20 years ago and was just reopened this past year. The odor of new wood was strong and very pleasant. However, no “nightengale floors,” which sound as if they chirp as we walk, and I heard in the temple yesterday. He had a small art gallery. Of interest to me was a rather sexy Chagall lithogragh - nothing like sex from a Russian Jewish painter to enliven a Buddhist temple.
Then lunch at the Rotary club. They (the whole club) had another meeting so our presentation was just a few minutes of introduction and no slides. The meal was a Japanese version of pork curry over rice.
Then off to Hamamatsu Photonics. They make wonderful light sources and sensors - lots of medical uses and even celestial viewing - looking for neutrinos. Tom Okedo worked here until about 12 years ago when he started his alternative energy - solar and wind, etc. - company. Then back to the hotel to meet our families.
Yoshio Miyazawa was there; he told me to call him Yoshi. We drove to his home, about 30-40 minutes away. His English is far from fluent though far better than my Japanese, and he asked me questions which I tried to answer so he would understand, and he, mostly, did not understand my questions. His wife, Reiko, and daughter, Masako, live with him. There is a ceramic Tanuke in the yard and two paper ones in the living room along with lots of animal figures, especially stuffed cats and dogs. And, of course, lots of clocks - I counted four in the living room, although only three worked. The yard is delightfully landscaped, but the house is just off a large street, so I’ll sleep with ear plugs. He was born Jan 1, 1942 and works as a stock broker. His hair is dark as the benefit of the wig he wears since he was 48. They have a daughter in the US, so they have been there many times, including Sedona just this past year, but many national parks and the wine train. I tried to show them where Petaluma is on Google Earth, which has an icon on the desktop - eventually Masako got that to work, and I was able to show a picture of my house and the other places significant for the Team.
Reiko prepared a dinner of beef curry - they laughed when they learned that I had had curry on rice for lunch. There was also store bought cut carrots and cucumber, sliced ham, grated something - maybe radish and a small salad. Then some fruit for dessert and a sweet. I had a beer, but the others did not. They are offering a Japanese restaurant for tomorrow. They seemed pleased that I enjoy Japanese food, especially sushi and Inagi.
The cumputer was the adventure as they have no wireless. I plugged my computer in to their Ethernet, and it needed a password. Masako tried to figure it out; Yoshi is not very knowledgable at all and never knew he had a password. I sent a couple emails on their computer, but my computer was blocked. Masako and Yoshi called the computer company and, at about 8:30, someone came to the door with the password. He did not come in, and Reiko gave him a package of small oranges. Masako entered the password, played around a bit and eventually, my computer was on line. Good thing, too, as they don’t have Skype on their computer and I couldn’t get it to download properly, but that won’t be a problem with my machine.
My bedroom is upstairs in a very generous room. The toilet and sink are nearby. The shower and bath are downstairs. I have to be up and out for breakfast at about 6:45 - which is later than I have been getting up anyway, but Yoshi must be at work (after dropping me at the Grand Hotel) by 9, so we leave here at about 7:45.
Only 4327 steps, today. Some mouse problems with the computer and no time to fix it this morning.

GSE Day 22

07 Nov 2010 Leave a Comment

by gbesses in Gerald/ジェラルド

GSE Day 22
Sunday - a free day. But Tom Okedo offered to show us around the city of his birth, and I was the only one who accepted. He picked me up at 11. First we drove by his office; he designs and builds solar and wind power equipment. The office was closed, but the number of trucks in the yard was impressive. Then we drove to a large field where soccer was being played, and we walked to the beach (Many surfers on what looked to me to be eight inch waves. I only saw one actually ride a wave and he fell, fast - you have to start somewhere, I guess, and I couldn’t do even that much.) while Tom explained that each May there is a large kite festival at this spot, which includes a downtown parade participated in by each of the towns of Hamamatsu. Several days of kite flying, kite fighting, eating and drinking - the video was impressive and the Festival museum

that we went to with the large kites was impressive. He says that about 100,000 people participate in the kite fighting, but the parade part looks busier on the video.
Then to the Hamamatsu fish market - small and busy. There was a small festival nearby and a magician put an audience member into a guillotine-type device and didn’t cut off his head when the knife came down, but did slice the cucumbers on either side. Then wonderful Ramen for lunch. Then to a temple with a marvelous stone garden. We stopped so I could get some caffeine, but I was sleepy anyway. Along the way we called Craig who wanted, along with Bri, to join us for dinner. Windy had sent me a note this morning stating that she wanted a day alone and none of us have heard from Jillian.
Great Inagi (eel) dinner. Apparently, Hamamtsu is famous for eel and there were dozens of restaurants as we drove that featured a sign for eel near the beach and the big bay. Tom took us to a great place near the hotel; we were the only customers, but we were early. Tom had plain Inagi. Craig, Bri and I had a special dish involving three steps - first eat the eel and rice; second mix in scallions and wasabi; third, drown the eel and rice in dashi (a fish broth). I liked the second step best and repeated it until my Inagi was gone - wonderful meal, as they usually are. Then off for Karaoke at a nearby place, for two hours, my voice is now a croak.
Back to the hotel. 9106 steps today.
Tomorrow we go to a Zen meditation place in the morning; present to the Hamakita RC for lunch and a photonics factory in the afternoon. We meet our host families for dinner. The folks I’ve met, so far, have been wonderful.
Editors note: The captions are somewhat loused up and I don’t know how to correct them in this program.

GSE Day 21

06 Nov 2010 Leave a Comment

by gbesses in Gerald/ジェラルド

GSE Day 21
Travel from Mishima to Mamamatsu, a city of about 830,000, primarily industrial - especially Suzuchi motorcycles and Yamaha pianos. We were met by Tom Ikedo, the District GSE chair, and a few other Rotarians. The Team had wanted some time off a formal schedule and Tom has canceled all other Saturday activities and all of Sunday. Part of the team went to a soccer game (they call it soccer in Japan) while Windy wandered the downtown and I went with Tom to see the Hamamatsu Castle and then the Municipal Art Museum, which had a wonderful weaving exhibit of the work of the Shimuras, a mother and daughter team who dye the fabric and weave it.
The castle is a small one,

a reproduction (in 1958) of what was destroyed in WWII. Tokugawa had spent 17 years here as a child and young man - he was 29-45 during this period and fought many important battles. Then he took me to a small restaurant belonging to a man with whom he had gone to elementary school and junior high. He said that he knew everyone who came into the restaurant and only people who knew about it came there - two tables and six bar chairs. We were joined by Sone san, who is the Team Leader for the Japan team that is coming to us in May and Honda san, who has a friend who lives on Purrington street in Petaluma and wants to visit while the Team is there and come to our Reno conference. Lots of fish dishes, sake and beer. We were, briefly, joined by Yoshiko, who, I think, is a hostess at a local bar/restaurant. Tom says he will take me there on Sunday. It filled me up so I passed on going to the sushi restaurant and came back to the hotel.
The hotel - the tallest building in Hamamatsu and very luxurious. Our rooms are on the 43rd floor with a wonderful view over the city. After a rest, the Team returned from their game and dinner and we went out for an hour on Karaoke.
11563 steps, today.